![]() Knowing all of this, I would still buy them for $1, just because you never know what you're going to get, you could end up with easier fixes, like bulged caps or blown fuses if you're lucky. As you would imagine, this is a very complicated task, usually done by very expensive machines/tools (such as one from Louis Rossmann's shop). You will then have to remove the chip and clean the area out with some desoldering wick and install the new solder balls. The proper way would be to get one of those BGA stencils on eBay and a bag of new solder balls for GPUs. I used to do this oftenly for my 8800GTS cards. But, as you know, this will not last for very long, maybe a few weeks up to a few months until the card dies again. ![]() One temporary fix for this issue is the ubiquitous "stick'em in the oven" approach, which will reflow all the solder joints. ![]() That's because GPUs from this era (early-mid 2000s) are very prone to BGA solder failure because of the many heat cycles during its lifetime, the solder balls under the GPU die or the memory chips will crack and you will get screen artifacts or nothing at all. ![]() Realistically, your chances will be pretty low. Those where dark days for the graphics cards. After that we demanded the change for an ATI and the client never had problems again. I put the Furmark on it and it lasted 2 minutes. Once we had a problem with a GIGABYTE NVIDIA 580 that failed and when it returned from warranty the board had a strange color so I thought the gpu had been reflowed. Reflowing a GPU is a waste of time unless you have an impressive equipment and even then they do not usually last long. Personally I avoid the 8000 to 600 series (although the problem exists since the 6000 series) from NVIDIA (see the bumpgate … tands-bumpgate/) and the high-end ATI 3000 to 5000 series, the rest is a matter of luck. some graphics also had capacitor problems but those were mostly low end and I have seen some cases of burned mosfets. Personally, I avoid NVIDIA's 8000 to 600 I am not an electronic technician but most of the card failures between 20-2012 were due to problems in the soldering of the gpu due to thermal stress. Some also had capacitor problems but those were mostly low end and I have seen some cases of burned mosfets. I am not an electronic technician but most of the card failures I've seen between 20-2012 were due to problems in the soldering of the gpu due to thermal stress. Here is a video to see just how hard it can be. The hard part is soldering small components. Just let the solder do the work of repairing the broken solder ball welds.īut you should always test all the circuits and traces and capacitors and mosfet and diodes and components first with a Multimeter. In this case some no-clean flux under the GPU and heating the GPU to 300f with a heat gun until all the flux has been evaporated may fix the problem. If there is NO video it maybe that the GPU chip solder welds have broken because of excessive heat. Some times you can just reflow the memory chips if the video is garbled. But this solder job failure was a plague on PCI video cards.īuy Voodoo cards run HOT and usually the solder joints breaks or they get damaged from over heating. This must have been a manufacturing process failure that plagued PCI cards in the 1990’sīad solder or flux or just a bad solder job process. Usually it is because of broken solder welds so the solder joints just need to be repairs. Or you can drag solder with some flux and solder. Reflow with a heat gun and some no clean flux should fix the broken solder joints. The surface mounted chips solder welds have broken so you just need to reflow or drag solder the memory chips. If the card is working but the video out put is garbled then it my just be a bad solder job. Once you have all these things then you can begin. You need a desolder gun to desolder capacitors. I would say you need an electronic microscope hooked up to a laptop so you can carefully inspect the PCB and components.īut Most IMPORTANTLY you need good eye sight and steady hands for soldering. You need a well ventilated place like outside or an open garage to let out the solder fumes when soldering. You need some type of graphics card holder or solder table or electronics stand of some sort to hold your PCB. You need a fine point solder iron with lots of different types of flux and solders. I would say you need at least a Multimeter for troubleshooting electronic components and traces. You need good solder and repair skills and equipment. ![]()
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